Interview and Portrait by Luke
Occupation: Electrical Engineer
Sam is a man that has been brought up with surfing in his veins. His dad was a surfer and was taking him into the sea from before he could walk. First time surfing he thinks was about 3 years old so he was probably standing on a board before he was running.
I met him at his home and I could tell how much he was in love with surfing by the amount of bouncing around the room with enthusiasm. The guy was excited and even on a shitty day of very brown looking sloppy waves.
“Being in the ocean gives total freedom also I love the feeling of having no control, no control over the size of the waves and frequency. Every wave is different and will be surfed different”.
Best Moment: Morocco, killers point. It was a day of 8ft glassy barrels. Dropping in on a big wave hitting an awesome bottom turn then following it up with a crystal clear tube for 3-400 yards. What a wave!
Scariest Moment: Went out on a 7ft day at about 10 years old. Dropped in on a steep wave and wiped out. The leash decided to to wrap around his neck. The second wave decided to hit him straight away and he got dragged under again, almost passing out. Eventually the leash came loose and he was able to get out unscathed but it was a close one!
He would tell anyone who wanted to start surfing , go out to have fun and take the advice of a veteran surfer. Don’t jump on a small board board straight away as you may get disheartened and finally don’t have too high expectations of yourself. No one can instantly surf. It takes time, trial and error and patience but keep at it.
Thanks Sam it was a pleasure dude and hope to catch you in the waves another time in the near future!